zx6r owners manual
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zx6r owners manualFor a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. I used Ravenol VSG 75w-90 full synthetic oil. According Elsa specification, in my manual gearbox (01X, JWS code) going 3 L and I found 2.8L. There it is how it goes: Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk I did not drive the car from that oil change due to this covid situation Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk Stay safe etc. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk All other oils offered to me was not recommended by oil finder of the brand to which they belong. Sent from my Redmi Note 7 using Tapatalk By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Sometimes it's superceded so double check, stealer, TPS and numerous oil choosers from reputable oil companies. It will be either G 052 171 or G 052 911. Sometimes it's superceded so double check, stealer, TPS and numerous oil choosers from reputable oil companies. It will be either G 052 171 or G 052 911.I liked to think that I was on top of all the oil specs but it seems to be getting more complex all the time, so many different manufacturers using bespoke oils for their cars resulting in a bewildering range of oil types, specs and viscosity. The gearbox is a manual 5 speed residing in a 2002 1.8t Quattro. I lost a little oil when I changed the clutch and I'd rather change it than top it up for peace of mind. The latest contender, I'd appreciate your opinion Gaz. I would edge towards a 75W80 synthetic as the lower viscosity especially from cold makes the gears change smoother. Really must find out that gearbox oil spec and from multiple entities. Then a good decision can be made.http://infinity-pro.ru/userfiles/california-contracting-manual.xml
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If you're topping up you might as well drain and change the lot. Millers oil is much better. Most people normally go for Fuchs Titan Sintofluid or Castrol Syntrans. Yes, the lower viscosity w80 helps when it's cold (a negligible amount of time?), but screws you when it's hot (95 of the time?). I'm sure Audi would have made a hot country - cold country differentiation, like they did with engine oils, had it been needed. Cold shift quality and less drag with the 80. 90 is good for track like Redline MT90, but. Is G 052 911 really a 75W90 because it sure won't say it on the bottle and a non existent data sheet, it's nothing short of expensive snake oil. Yes, the lower viscosity w80 helps when it's cold (a negligible amount of time?), but screws you when it's hot (95 of the time?). I'm sure Audi would have made a hot country - cold country differentiation, like they did with engine oils, had it been needed.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk VW G 052 145 A2 Special synthetic gear oil with SAE 75W90 viscosity for front and rear differentials, including limited slip differentials. VW G 052 162 A2 Special ATF with viscosity modifier. Suitable for 4 and 5 gear ZF automatic transmissions. Not suitable for 6 gear transmissions. VW G 052 171 SAE 70W75 viscosity gear oil. VW G 052 171 A2 Special gear oil designed for the manual transmissions of cars with transverse engines. VW G 052 175 Special working fluid for Haldex clutches. Developed by Haldex and Statoil. VW G 052 178 Gear oil with SAE 75W viscosity. VW G 052 180 A2 Special gear oil for Audi Multitronic transmissions. VW G 052 182 (VW TL 521 82) Special gear oil for certain DSG dual clutch transmissions. VW G 052 190 A2 Special VW gear oil for Multitronic CVT transmissions. VW G 052 726 Monograde gear oil with SAE 75W viscosity. VW G 052 798 SAE 70W75 viscosity gear oil. VW G 052 911 Audi specification for transmissions used with longitudinal engine configurations.http://broadviewlibrary.org/uploaded_bvlib/calibre-manual-espa-ol.xml Products meeting this specification are of SAE 75W90 viscosity VW G 052 990 Special ATF for automatic transmissions combined with differentials. VW G 055 005 Special ATF for VW automatic transmissions and transaxles. VW G 055 145 Transmission oil with 3 Sturaco additive. VW G 055 162 Special ATF for VW automatic transmissions and transaxles. VW G 055 175 A2 Special working fluid for Haldex clutches. Developed by Haldex and Statoil. OEM MTF is a decent product.Having read the article there's a few problems with it, the do not use GL5 under any circumstances is not true and out of date. GL4 does have less EP additives namely sulphur that can attack yellow metals on the synchromeshes, but it's the level of sulphur that's important, it still has sulphur that's why it pen and inks. The level of sulphur is the case for certain GL5's as some are aimed at manual transmission some with more EP additives at diffs. Classic example is my original spec 501.50 also known as G50 or G 005 000 and it is a GL4 75W90 has now been superceded as checked both with a stealer and TPS to be G 052 911 which is a GL5 75W90 also found as oe 75W80 by a couple of manufacturers that have decided that 75W90 is way to thick and quite rightly so, which brings me onto the next subject - viscosity. Now 75W90 is thick stuff I've 75W90 in the form of Redline MT90 in a Jap petrol turbo and these Fast n furious cars get thrashed around a track and drifted.I may try when I get it back on the road the lighter Redline version MTL. Now why do you need a 75W90 in a road car - you don't, that's why two oe went 75W80 and VW produced G 052 171 a 70W75 for those experiencing poor cold shifting. So you could even use that.By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.http://schlammatlas.de/en/node/20518 I have thought the gear changes could be smoother but just put this down to the car. Can anyone advise when to change the gearbox oil, and also how this is done, can it be done by myself? Not sure if the gears feel a little clunky going in, especially 3rd. Was wondering if this would be why, or does having a diesel make any difference. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. When i spoke to a dealer they were 'no it's fine', but what does the collective wisdom of the Internet say. Also, what sort of cost for getting an Indy to do it. This is for a B7 S4 Auto with 79k miles. If you read through the linked thread, you'll see that audi's online fixed servicing quotes ?175 for the job, however that is quoted wrong, and for the wrong gearbox, so waiting to see how people get on, and whether audi honour it. A genuine quote direct from an audi dealer is over ?600 all in. Expensive eh?? Reason is, the CORRECT fluid is made from the tears of jesus himself, so just the parts (fluid, filter, and gasket) come to over ?300, and thats from TPS, not Audi. Factor in a good couple of hours taking up ramp space etc, you're looking at loads of money. An indy would no doubt be cheaper, but I wouldnt trust anyone other than a specialist, which again, isnt going to be cheap. Just out of interest, where are you located?? They told me not to worry about it. Maidstone Audi (Inchcape) did mine and stated ?175. But, they do offer a price match if you can get a quote from a garage within 15 miles using genuine Audi parts. I got a quote for ?138 and they matched it, even though I forgot the quote they said their priority was making sure I was happy. I do recommend them, without doubt their service was spot on. Good luck mate, hope you get it sorted.http://cornerwebstudio.com/images/brother-pt-310-manual.pdf Maidstone Audi (Inchcape) did mine and stated ?175. But, they do offer a price match if you can get a quote from a garage within 15 miles using genuine Audi parts. I got a quote for ?138 and they matched it, even though I forgot the quote they said their priority was making sure I was happy. I do recommend them, without doubt their service was spot on. Good luck mate, hope you get it sorted.All the manual's i've had through the years ive never changed it maybe i've been lucky If im honest i didnt notice a difference, but it was relatively cheap to get done and for peace of mind i know its been done. My gearbox has always been smooth but can be a little stiff on very cold mornings, i find if i change slower and let the revs creep slightly higher before i change its all good though. If im honest i didnt notice a difference, but it was relatively cheap to get done and for peace of mind i know its been done. My gearbox has always been smooth but can be a little stiff on very cold mornings, i find if i change slower and let the revs creep slightly higher before i change its all good though.It only happens 1st thing for 5 mins then it's fine I'm the third owner of my December 2006 A4 3.0tdi auto, it had 39k on the clock with a full dealer history when I bought it 18 months ago. To be honest I'm a bit anal when it comes down to servicing and preventative maintenance so I got this job done for piece of mind. I had no issues what so ever with the gearbox prior to changing the oil and the gearbox continues to be smooth, quiet with slick changes throughout the range. I'd definitely recommend having this done especially with higher mileage cars as a replacement auto box can cost in excess of ?3k fitted. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.https://southportrubbish.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628da8b908591---carrier-hvac-parts-manual.pdf After giving them the chassis number as they were unable to find car based on reg, I was informed that the haldex is a sealed for life unit, and that also goes for the gearbox as well. As it was Audi and they know best, I tend to disbelieve them so thought I would ask the real experts on here. Any advice appreciated. M'tronic - different story. Was really just looking to get it done with a main service due shortly thats all. Car has done 65k. Not sure if it's a multi or tip tbh. Its got flappy paddles if that makes any difference. Thanks for reply. And yes normally this oil is lifetime. The only slight niggle i have is when the car is first started as in cold. When put in gear, the engine note will change slightly and there may be a few minor knocks but i would expect this with an auto box. The problem is what Audi say is the life of the car from my understanding it's 7 years and 100K miles, even ZF recommend the fluid changed after 100K, I'm on 200K so it's well over due. Daytona Grey (perl) Isn't it wonderful when you cant even trust the trustworthy dealer who know everything. One thing I did read when looking for gearbox specialist is that this scare mongrey of changing oil and knackering your gearbox is usually down to an already goosed TC and basically the floating bits of clutch material in the oil is what keeps the friction going, once changed you'll loose the added friction then it's just a matter of time before you loose drive, also if it was me I'd be looking for someone that does pressure flushing to make sure all the crud is blown out, iv even considered driving to Germany and having ZF service it themselves, heard the service is second to none. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!www.dsnjl.com/userfiles/files/canon-fax-8820-manual.pdfThe car in question is a 2007 model A6 AVANT S-Line Le Mans Quattro 3.0 TDI From what I understand the correct spec of gearbox oil is fully synthetic 75w90 grade meeting GL5 spec. I also understand that Audi say that these are sealed for life gearboxes and that you will never need to change the oil - however, whilst I am aware of this I don't think that a gearbox which has covered nearly 160k miles would not benefit from an oil change - particularly as I have seen other 'sealed for life' gearboxes that when drained had pretty grubby oil. All help and advice are appreciated. Many thanks and of course Merry Christmas to you all.As my tdi is a tiptronic i cant really help you but my gearbox is also supposed to have lifetime oil but the manufactor, zf says it should be 60000 km between changes so thats what i did to mine.Unfortunately, this forum is dominated by Yanks and your spec of A6 was never offered up here in the states so the information you seek my be hard to find in this forum. However, the 6MT is a popular tranny in the A4 forums here on Audizine so you may search those forums for info that may help you.Thanks for the swift replies to my first post - do you happen to know if the Audi A4 Quattro uses the identical 6 speed manual transmission as the A6 Quattro. If so then I'll do some searching on the A4 subforum. CheersThanks for the swift replies to my first post - do you happen to know if the Audi A4 Quattro uses the identical 6 speed manual transmission as the A6 Quattro. If so then I'll do some searching on the A4 subforum. Cheers It is my understanding that the A4 and A6 use the same gearbox. The gearing is different for the TDI but that should not effect what you are doing.Replace drian plug. fill new fluid in through the fill plug to spec.I absolutely LOVE my A8 but the fuel economy is what you would expect it to be for having 12 cylinders. I love the car but want good economy, and the TDI is the only answer to that problem. The 4.https://aquaticlandscape.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628da8c30fed4---Carrier-hvac-instruction-manual.pdf2 gas engine gets about the same mpg as my W12 around town so it would make no sense to downgrade in power for similar fuel cost.As mentioned you won't find many tdi members here but very helpful friendly place all the same.It is my understanding that the A4 and A6 use the same gearbox. The gearing is different for the TDI but that should not effect what you are doing.Replace drian plug. fill new fluid in through the fill plug to spec. On my B5 Avant, all I did was remove the fill plug first, then the drain plug and the fluid. Replaced the drain plug and filled until fluid came out of the fill plug. You can kind of see in the fill plug hole and see that the fluid level is even with the threads to just coming out. Pretty simple really and helped the shifting on mine back in the day. Damn, I still miss that car and the manual trans.The car in question is a 2007 model A6 AVANT S-Line Le Mans Quattro 3.0 TDI From what I understand the correct spec of gearbox oil is fully synthetic 75w90 grade meeting GL5 spec. I also understand that Audi say that these are sealed for life gearboxes and that you will never need to change the oil - however, whilst I am aware of this I don't think that a gearbox which has covered nearly 160k miles would not benefit from an oil change - particularly as I have seen other 'sealed for life' gearboxes that when drained had pretty grubby oil. All help and advice are appreciated. Many thanks and of course Merry Christmas to you all. I've just got back from picking up my manual 2006 3.0tdi quattro also, and want to do a gear oil change. I just did one on my manual B5 A4 about 3 weeks ago and was super easy, but having also had an auto and CVT in my time, I am not sure if on this latest beast, there are computers involved in filling them up with fresh stuff. Have you got any further on your search yet aw911. I strongly suspect its as simple as has already been mentioned - open filler bung, drain out old, top up with new, nip up both bungs - done.https://www.telsercom.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628da8d83875e---carrier-infinity-air-conditioner-installation-manual.pdfI have the technical manual for the A6 and there is the info in relation to the fluid spec and quantities for the manual transmission and the diff; I am just going to jack the vehicle up onto 4 axle stands and then get myself underneath, verify where the fill and drain points are and then get to work on changing the fluids. Fill point first and then drain and measure oil quantity drained just for additional comfort that the quantities are correct (although can't see the manual being incorrect). Will probably take some pics and then post up some info to help anyone else looking for this info in the future. As far as I'm aware there is no need to involve computers for a refill of the manual transmission - but I am definitely going to invest in the Ross-tech diagnostic kit. Great cars - nice to see a few UK owners also on the forum; really loving the car and have completed a full service (oil change, oil, air, fuel and pollen filters) and upgraded the standard lightbulbs with some nightbreakers (may consider a HID upgrade in the future). Loving the driving experience - so much smooth power available and really capable cars. Happy new year to you all.Been for a drive - all seems okI had to buy one to do my '97 A4. Would have put money on Audi using the same one for a much newer A6. Where did you get the Millers. OpieOils? What do you think about tilting the car up at the front for filling the gearbox, and tilting up at the rear for the rear diff in order to squeeze a little extra oil in both?? (I also took advantage of this afternoon and did the ARB drop links):)Rear diff is fill to spill - again you want it to be level. I can't see putting in extra oil would be of any benefit unless you had a leak. Jacking the front and rear independently would mean you may not drain all the oil and real risk of overfilling.www.drussoarts.com/userfiles/files/canon-fax-730i-manual.pdf I used a measuring jug to get the right amounts and the used a oil pump to put it into the gearbox as there is no other easy way to do it when you're on your back under the car!! ARB links a fairly common failure on the A6 I understand - certainly wouldn't have wanted to do the work today you would have needed a snorkel. Millers came from Opie - I've used the millers products before and Opie are pretty consistent on delivery and price.The fill and drain plug both take a 10mm allen key. My car was at 75'000 when I decided to do it and now gear changes are so much smoother!!Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!I bought them from the parts counter at a local dealer and threw away the recipt. Step 1: Get the car up levelly on four jackstands. You need the car level in order to fill the diff properly. Step 2: Remove the Front and Rear Undertrays with a T-25 torx, 5 mm allen, Phillips screwdriver and large flathead screwdriver. Note the gaping hole in my front undertray that one of my local Audi dealers didn?t even note when I brought it in for the 15k service (hey it was free for me via Audicare from the car?s original owner). The hole in the undertray had a matching smashed sway bar bracket to go with it. Anyway, I spotted that about 500 miles after I brought the car in. A hidden gift from the original owner. I?ve since replaced the bracket (and sways) but haven?t bought a new undertray. It would take a seriously trained factory technician to miss this problem. Front Undertray Rear Undertray Step 3: Disconnect the nut holding the power steering cooler to the Front Subframe using a 10 mm socket. Step 4: Remove the six bolts holding the front subframe on using an 18 mm socket. Note my subframe is not stock so yours may look different. Step 5: Remove the fill plug (red) using a 10 mm allen. Remove the drain plug (blue) using an 10 mm allen as well. Always remove the fill plug first, because if you open the drain plug first and the fill plug ends up being stuck then you?re F?d. Step 6: Drain the fluid into a pan. I found this in what drained out. That can?t be good but at least I got it out of there. Old fluid wasn?t looking too good. I labeled the fluids in the photo so you can tell the difference. Very tough to tell the difference at first glance. Step 7: Once empty, reinstall the drain plug. This is the only car I?ve ever owned that didn?t have a crush washer on these plugs. I have no idea what the torque is but I torqued it to 32 ft-lbs. Seems about right for this size bolt. Step 8: Pump fluid into the transmission through the fill hole. I use my trusty syringe which holds about a half qt of fluid. Step 9: Keep filling until you get a steady stream of fluid draining out the fill hole. Mine took about 4.5 qts. Get 6 and do your rear diff at the same time. You'll have a little less than a half a qt left. Step 10: Reinstall the drain plug (again no crush washer). Again I have no idea what the torque is but I torqued it to 32 ft-lbs because that seems about right for this size bolt. This is obviously a non critical bolt and torquing it is good practice but not all that critical. I spray everything down with brake cleaner when I'm done so that if a leak ever happens it will be evident. Step 11: Reinstall the Front Subframe using the new bolts. You?re going to need a long breaker bar to turn them that much past the torqued value. Step 12: Reinstall the front and rear undertrays. Step 13: Lower the car if you?re done. I do this on all my cars every 30k miles. If you do it every 30k miles it will last significantly longer. Hell if you do it at any interval other than never it will last a lot longer. When you take it for a spin the difference on this will be night and day. Your trans will shift way smoother and there is no possible way you could not notice the difference. Because the fluid degrades slowly, you don't notice it while it is happening. I replaced all my fluids when I brought the car home with 18k miles from the first owner because I wanted to use better than stock fluids. Now the car has 44k miles so it was nearing 30k miles since the last change. The stock fluid I took out a 18k miles looked even worse. In addition the factory apparently did not see a need to tighten the trans drain plug and it looked like there had been a small leak for some time. The bolt broke away with about 2 ft-lbs of force the first time I changed it.Great contribution to the 6spd crowd. I will be doing this next weekend. Looking forward to the shifting feedback as my ride has 57k miles with original fluid. Have a good weekend.The center and front differential have their own fill and drain plugs. GL-5 gear oil should be safe for automatics and the rear differential, no synchros to worry about on those.EDIT: Read a bit of that thread. I guess if one wants to stick with Lifeguard but couldn't we drain and refill with Redline?EDIT: Read a bit of that thread. I guess if one wants to stick with Lifeguard but couldn't we drain and refill with Redline? That's what ZF uses. If we decide to use a different fluid, EVERY last drop of the old fluid would need to be removed from the system since we can't mix different types of fluid (meaning we would have to take the transmission apart):(That's what ZF uses. If we decide to use a different fluid, EVERY last drop of the old fluid would need to be removed from the system since we can't mix different types of fluid (meaning we would have to take the transmission apart):( I'd split a case with you. Because surely you know that autos are totally different. They have a torque converter you can't readily gain access to which holds the majority of your transmission fluid, you likely have a filter in there that needs replacing, and in general automatic transmissions use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and not gear oil as the lubricant. If you were asking about an automatic transmission in a Toyota 4Runner, BMW X3 or Acura MDX I could help you. But I've never even seen an Audi automatic and know nothing about them. But suffice it to say, it is nothing like replacing the fluid in a manual transmission. But I'm confident you can figure out how to do it. Step 1 is to figure out if you have a transmission cooler, because if you do then you can break a hose connection there and feed a hose from the supply side to drain it and feed another hose to the return line to supply the new fluid. That is typically the easiest way to do a full swap. And yeah you need a lot of fluid and it's expensive stuff.Great contribution to the 6spd crowd. Ran it in my old Landcruiser (4spd Manual wiht a 7.5:1 first gear and no syncros in first), my Misti's 5 sod, my motorcycles.everything. It is amazing oil. I will be swapping my 8spd auto and all my diffs to it very soon, engine has been on it for a while.I'm hoping we can continue to find more info on the forum on changing the Auto Trans fluid as well.Thoughts? 2. How do we find out what transmission type we have to order the right fluid? Thanks!This is for automatic fluid which seems to be a little more particular. I figured since you're changing the filter you have an automatic. Finding a place to purchase the fluid is another matter. There are places that claim they have trans fluid compatible with G060162, but not many have been willing to take the risk from what I've seen.My dealer said I should not change my fluid even thought I was at 130k. I changed it anyway and the fluid that was drained looked and felt exactly the same as the Motul 300 Synthetic I put back in.I changed my MT transmission on my SI with amsoil and it made a (night and day) difference. Once I hit 30k miles on the b8 its getting done!You wouldn't be able to see the hole as you're filling it, but you could check after the 4qt.Redline is among the best.I made the car level, removed the plastic trays, and drivetrain stabilizer. I used a hand pump I bought off Amazon to fill the transmission with MT-90. My biggest issue was that the pump leaked, making it difficult to maintain a firm grip. Post-fluid change, the shifts seemed more crisp. I wasn't expecting any significant improvement since I only had 25K miles on the fluid. As weeks passed, I noticed that my fuel economy had decreased and had cold weather related issues. I thought I was just driving more aggressively and just shrugged it off until winter weather arrived. Shifting required additional force. As temperatures reached into the single digits, a significant amount of force was needed to shift. There were times that I thought I was going to break something while trying to get into 2nd. The cold also brought random grinding surprises when granny shifting into 4th. Once the transmission warmed up, the issues went away. This was my 3rd winter with the car and the first two were unlike this past winter. I went ahead and changed back to OEM transmission fluid to avoid the cold weather issues I had with MT-90. This time I did not remove the drivetrain stabilizer. It is possible to get a 90 degree allen key onto the drain plug and loosen it. To avoid getting fluid all over the stabilizer, I used clips to attach foil to the transmission fins and let the foil slope back and off the rear end of the stabilizer the collection pan was. I routed the tube from the top of the engine bay down and into the fill port. While I was underneath the car holding the tube into the fill port, I had my GF pour fluid down the funnel. This saved me a lot of time and a mess. Any attempts to repeat my modified procedure will be at your own risk.I was really surprised to read that one had to drop the subframe to replace this fluid.which seems like an overengineered vehicle. You picked up the fluid at an Audi dealership. How much for 6qt needed for the transmission and rear diff?How much for 6qt needed for the transmission and rear diff? I had them confirm part number and qty for my car before ordering.In particular the diff fluid.the site seems to be down now, and I think I have some local sources. Also, any chance you could update with your experiences after you go back to the genuine Audi fluids?There was noticeable metallic flakes in the old fluid. Eliminating those flakes and new fluid has made shifts smooth, almost butter smooth. I can't comment on the cold weather issues until later as it's still well above freezing here.Will be swapping it in a few weeks and providing my feedback. As for cold weather.I wont' have to wait too much longer to find out.Any more cold-weather advice on MT-90 vs OEM?If you want to risk the MT-90, give me a PM, I'll give you a GREAT price on the 5 brand new quarts I have that I want to get rid of.Any more cold-weather advice on MT-90 vs OEM? No shifting problems in last weeks cold weather. MT-90 would have been extremely difficult until the fluid warmed up and something I wasn't willing to deal with for another winter. Save yourself time, money, and trouble, stick with OEM.Now to find a thread on front end lubrication. Probably need to go to the shop and get it up on the rack. Some little noises that are hard to identify from inside.I had the GEARBOX Malfunction cel. I am out of warranty so it is all out of pocket. Anyway, I go to pick up my car and my mechanic tells me there was only 2L of oil that came out. And he said he thinks that super odd, but he thinks this is the reason for the fault code. Anyways, that was about a week and half ago, I have not experienced the fault code since.