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winchester model 363 manualIt's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!Bought the car and thought I'd just tuning it. Well one thing led to another and now I'm at a stage 2plus tune with a large intercooler. And now I'm linking myself in the ass for not buying a stick. I've started by trying to price out a donor car and start a list of what all needs to be swapped. Figured Eng harness, trans, rear diff, driveshaft, axles, pedals, flywheel, new clutch, trans, hyd lines, slave cyl res, shifter, shift linkage, modify exhaust, cap off trans cooler and that's about what I got so far. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSent from my iPhone using TapatalkStage 1 JHM tune, high flow cat, 3 in DP. Its fast enough. The manual and CVT share a crank, and the Tiptronic is the bastard. The issue is the shape of the output shaft on it. The manual flywheel simply won't mate to the Tiptronic crank. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'm not going though all that. As the job isn't labor intensive enough. That's the straw. I'd be restarted to give up a newly refreshed eng for another to have to refresh all over. I'll just wait, save some money and buy a b8 s4. I'll just wait, save some money and buy a b8 s4. Ive taken out many Civic SI manuals from the line to. All they are my red tail lights disappear. Realistically if that was the case how could I have the same eng code in my car as everyone else. The flexplate would have to come off and be swapped to a flywheel. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkRealistically if that was the case how could I have the same eng code in my car as everyone else. The flexplate would have to come off and be swapped to a flywheel. You can a Manual into a tiptronic thou. The only exception is using a fwd 2.0T from a MK5 GTI. The DSG crank and manual transmission are interchangeable. Unlike a B7 A4 2.http://www.oncopathologie.com/userfiles/bushnell-imageview-10x25-binocular-manual.xml
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0T where you can use a CVT versionSent from my iPhone using Audizine Realistically if that was the case how could I have the same eng code in my car as everyone else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'm not wrong and I'm not trying to be a dick. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThey over think some of the stupidest things. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat's the tricky part with the B7 swap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'll wait Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThat's the tricky part with the B7 swap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'm betting the 2.0 can do the same but you would need to be willing to take the risk of shaving the crank and not working.Swap the trans, engine, and everything you need from it. This is the only remotely cost effective way to do it.I did this same procedure to my b5 back in the day, seems to be a virtually identical job in the B7 as long as you can figure out what bearing to use.Swap the trans, engine, and everything you need from it. This is the only remotely cost effective way to do it. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Anyone completed one on a B7 yet? Anyone completed one on a B7 yet? Anyone completed one on a B7 yet?Register or Log In now!Anyone know what all is needed to do it. Trans Shifter Shifter Surround Axles Vagcom to recode Anything else?Hers: 2008 Ibis Ti Avant 6MT - Bagged Unicorn - Stage 3 2.7T swap RIP: 2006 DG Avant Tip I'm mainly wondering because I got this car for cheap, light wreck, clear title and I was going to pull apart my 6spd car to do a 2.7t swap but, if it's not a massive swap I can use this car and not have to rip apart my daily driver. I'm going to read PNB7's now to see what all he did for the trans part of his swap.I'm sure I've seen it done on a B6 before - not sure about a B7.http://www.czerwoneiczarne.pl/files/bushnell-manual-telescope.xmlHers: 2008 Ibis Ti Avant 6MT - Bagged Unicorn - Stage 3 2.7T swap RIP: 2006 DG Avant Tip ABT did one already. Have a donor car for the 2.7, and now have a 2.0t tip that I can swap it into. PNB7 shows it as a straight forward swap and then de-pin and remove the auto trans wiring.Hers: 2008 Ibis Ti Avant 6MT - Bagged Unicorn - Stage 3 2.7T swap RIP: 2006 DG Avant Tip I'm pulling the 2.0t and the tip trans this weekend and will take lots of pics. Gotta tow the car to the body shop to make sure everything is all straight and then waiting on a bunch of euro RS4 oem body stuff I bought to make the trip over from germany and going to work on the swap to the 2.7 awhile.tons of fun in the next couple weeks.I'm sure I've seen it done on a B6 before - not sure about a B7. I don't know anybody who has done it on the 2.0. I looked into it alot. I know the cost will be about 3-5k if you do not resell your parts. Just ask RAII'm pulling the 2.0t and the tip trans this weekend and will take lots of pics. Gotta tow the car to the body shop to make sure everything is all straight and then waiting on a bunch of euro RS4 oem body stuff I bought to make the trip over from germany and going to work on the swap to the 2.7 awhile.tons of fun in the next couple weeks. And please tell me you got some Euro RS4 seats.Hers: 2008 Ibis Ti Avant 6MT - Bagged Unicorn - Stage 3 2.7T swap RIP: 2006 DG Avant Tip I don't know anybody who has done it on the 2.0. I looked into it alot. Just ask RAI PNB7 looks to have done it with little issue so I'm feeling confident on it now.And please tell me you got some Euro RS4 seats. I'm definitely going to be following this. Hers: 2008 Ibis Ti Avant 6MT - Bagged Unicorn - Stage 3 2.7T swap RIP: 2006 DG Avant Tip I'm definitely going to be following this. Hopefully all the parts start rolling in soon.http://schlammatlas.de/en/node/18290 Cayenne calipers and ML450 rotors should be here tomorrow and I can check the clearance under my step lip HRE 546r's Was looking into the tip to manual swap in case mine ever goes bad but keep finding dead ends.Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!This thread will contain information pertaining to the swap and it will serve as a reference. Me and others will be adding more information as things progress. The swap will take place in my garage with jackstands and NO LIFT. The transmission will just be dropped out with nothing else. The subframe will be lowered so an alignment is recommended afterward. Put the battery to starter wires on the correct post, which is the post with the 13mm nut, and the plastic spacer behind, it WILL start a fire if you try to put your battery on with the cable on the 8mm post. Ask me how I know;) -To address the commonly known pilot bearing issue and where it might go, an alternator bearing will be placed inside the flywheel to act as a pilot bearing for the input shaft. This bearing has an outer diameter of 43mm and inner diameter of 15mm.For the bearing to fit, the end of the crank will be shaved down 4mm.Both cranks look the same on the end it terms of how and where the pilot bearing is mounted and the pilot bearing has the same part number. It works because all flywheels for the 1.8t are made to fit over the existing protrusion from the rear of the crank which is 43mm.For the process, it is not too much different from the manual transmission drop. I may miss a couple steps but im sure those steps are covered in a manual transmission removal DIY, but ill try to fill ya in on what ya need to know! 1. Got the car on jackstands slowly taking my time. Me under the car in this picture 2.http://www.compusiteinc.com/images/brother-4100e-owners-manual.pdf Remove exhaust, it will help if you remove everything from the turbo to the end of the driveshaft. 3. Remove pinch bolt, disconnect CV axles completely with 17mm Allen and then 6 triple square bolts on the inside. Then remove the heatshield over the CV axles. 4. Remove driveshaft bolts, 6 on each end, 2 in the middle (must make sure you mark the spot for those). It helped to have a friend pull the E-brake for me to freely spin the DS inbetween. 5. Remove lower control arm closest to the rear of the car, then disconnect the 3 bolts holding the subframe on each side. 6. Remove the few bolts holding the starter in on the passenger side of the transmission, you must do this to reveal the flex plate bolts (3 in a triangle pattern). When it is time to remove those, have a friend spin the flywheel with a flathead underneath the car and have them hold it there while you unbolt the T55 bolts. 7. Then remove the transmission mounts, starting with the middle bolts, then 2 on the side. Then disconnect 3 electrical plugs, and also disconnect the lines where the hoses meet the radiator for the tranny fluid. Remember to unbolt the mount holding the rubber hoses to the car, those stopped me when I tried to pull the trans. After all bolts are removed, you will start to disconnect transmission slowly prying it off with a transmission jack underneath. It stumped us when we got here but we somehow managed with magical powers. Be patient and be careful, it will come out somehow! 9. I decided to disconnect the shifter cable after I lowered the transmission, it just pops off. Tomorrow im going to go and remove the center console to get the shifter box out (4 bolts) 10. After the trans is pulled, you will have to unbolt the 6 flexplate bolts with a 17mm 12pt socket, I wedged something inbetween the wheel and the engine to prevent it from moving. After you do this, you will have to pull the flexplate off, BE VERY CAREFUL, I almost lost an eye with it popping off.https://evocative.ru/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628a95bd87498---canon-lv-7370-user-manual.pdf One thing I am wondering is if I need to just make this area flush, you can see the crank protruding. Guess ill find out tomorrow I might have missed a thing or two, but it will seem clearer once you start.Edit: Turns out that they are the same.First I kinda removed the shifter assembly, it was a pain. You need to remove the center console to make it easier. Lets just say I got pissed and then it all worked out. Now you can see the other stuff that you will need to put aside, you wont need that rod or the connectors anymore. After that I went to remove the master cylinder and the brake booster. Prepare for fluid to be spilled everywhere, but it will go out through the firewall area onto the ground. To remove the reservoir, there is one 10mm bolt, one connector, then yank it out. The other side is just pushed in. Then proceed with removing the 2 brake lines on the master cylinder. Afterwards you should then start to remove the 21mm nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster, you wont be able to remove the cylinder until you remove the booster. So after you get those nuts, there are 2 T45 bolts holding in the booster to the firewall. Remove those and on the harder side, I used vicegrips since there is no room for a wrench. Then go behind the dash and unbolt the pedal. In order to put the pedals in, you should remove the pedal assembly, held in by one 6mm allen. Afterwards take off the clips that hold the rod for the brake pedal, insert the new rod and put the assembly in without the clutch pedal in. This section will all make a lot more sense once you get in there. I bolted the clutch master cylinder first to the bracket. Remember that you must use the new longer push rod for the pedal and clutch pedal. Once you have the assembly in the car, you can then clip the hardline to the clutch master cylinder (there is a grommet you must remove for that spot).www.cutsky.com/d/files/96-ford-ranger-user-manual.pdf Then get your vac hose for the clutch master cylinder to the brake reservoir and connect it all (on the reservoir just cut off the closed end). Afterwards just install everything back. Pedals in: Time to shave off the crank. You should leave about 2mm left sticking out on the crank. I used a 2mm allen wrench to measure. To prevent myself from overdoing the grinding, I left in 2 spacers that were originally there (about 2mm) to get things perfect. These spacers were there from the stock flexplate, you can combine two to make about 2-3mm on the crank to keep as a safety buffer. Here is the FW held on by one bolt with the bearing in. At the end of the day, I felt pretty good about grinding the crank down. I was very skeptical at first but it was a whole lot easier than I had ever imagined.Tighten these bolts slowly, snug first and then go in a star pattern to bolt them down. I used a bolt and chain and a screwdriver wedged inbetween by block. At this point, transmission is on the jack and ready to go in. Line up the transmission as close as you can without hitting the pressure plate fingers and slowly get the input shaft in. I used bolts to guide the trans into the right angle and direction. Once you get close enough, put some bolts on and start tightening them around evenly so the transmission mates up to the block. This diagram should help you out. Once the transmission is in, you can start to raise the subframe back up, and bolt down the transmission mounts starting at the outer 2 ones. I would allow your transmission to have all its weight down when your torque things down. Around the same time, mount up the subframe brackets and bolt them down. After you do this, put the lower control arm back in. Now its time for CV joints- driveshaft, front axles. I tried to torque down my driveshaft, but one of my bolts just stripped when I tried. Remember to wipe out the old grease and put in the new CV grease.https://www.birdandwildlifeteam.com/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628a95c1c0090---Canon-lv-5220-manual.pdf On the center driveshaft bolts, remember that they have to be in the same EXACT spot. Around the same time, get the shifter linkage in. It will be tough getting the allen key into the linkage, it will just take some time. Shifter linkage, I believe its a 10mm bolt. I was lucky enough to have a pressure bleeder and I bled the lines in this order- Pass R, Driver R, Pass F, Driver F, slave cylinder. 1 liter of fluid was enough for me. Transmission in!! When you go to bolt in the starter bolts, MAKE SURE you do it on the right post. The 2 bigger positive cables MUST go on the 13mm post that has the plastic spacer behind it. DO NOT, DO NOT put those wires on the posts that have the 8mm post. Attach the spade connector wire as well. I learned the hard way when I went to put my battery on that you should not do this. My positive battery cable caught fire in 3 places and well, burned through all of the insulation. It didnt do any other damage than that so I just wrapped everything in electric tape. Luckily the water hose wasnt too far off but there was smoke everywhere, I almost thought I was going to lose my car and my girlfriends house. Here is the park relay you have to modify. It is located under the dash right above your 75x posts. You also need to pull the TCU computer out. Its located in front of the passenger seat under the carpet. Take off one panel held on by phillips and then pop the side bottom trim off with a flathead. Youll have to lift the carpet up, remove the box and remove the TCU. Exhaust back on, intake, upper control arms lower the car, torque down wheels, ready to go. When you go to put the battery cable back on, be sure to watch it carefully and be ready to remove it in case anything starts smoking or burning, if I had reacted quicker the fire may not have started. Car all together and one happy camper. All in all, the swap was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. The worst part was just getting the auto trans out and even that wasnt too bad.http://mountmedpharmacy.co.za/wp-content/plugins/formcraft/file-upload/server/content/files/1628a95cf414c7---canon-ls-100ts-calculator-manual.pdf On the initial startup everything seemed fine. You wont have a clutch pedal sensor so just make sure you dont start the car in first without your foot on the clutch ahead of time. My car ran on both auto and manual coding for the ECU, you shouldnt get codes once you have it on manual. The website that helped the most was the DIY (posted on top) on A4mods.com for the clutch install. It took me from Friday to Tuesday, with nothing done on the weekends because I did not have a bracket, just to give you an idea of the time frame. Another concern I had was grinding the crank down, thats a pretty important piece to mess up as well. I knew the job could be done, but for some reason I just did not feel 100 assured. Ive only helped pull one Camaro transmission before which didnt really help towards this job. That just goes to show that you dont have to have any special skills, all you need is some good logical thinking. After: I never knew how important fire safety was until I had this incident, never did I think I could be capable of causing something like that. The swap was no where near as bad as I thought It would have been. I guess all the worrying made me feel like everything was easier in the end. Grinding the crank down was no where near as hard as I thought, it was actually pretty easy (just use those spacers!). I feel a whole lot better about my car altogether, it is now everything that I could have ever wanted. Now I dont have a transmission barrier so next year I will be going with a BAT of some sort. The car feels pretty good, I have not had any issues so far (knock on wood). Everyone that has driven my car says that it feels pretty good as far as all the mechanics go. I have never owned a manual car, only driven friends cars so this has taken some getting used to. This thing supposedly lasts 4x longer than most extinguishers and is a whole lot smaller, ill be keeping this in my car.Amsoil products at wholesale pricing. Ask me how!cuakeobinhduong.com/upload/files/96-ford-ranger-service-manual-pdf I want this thread to be something people can easily reference.Taller gears tends to mean more time spent getting thru the gear and this means slower acceleration.Good luck Biketsai. We all know how Murphy's law likes to stick it's face around the corner with these cars.Taller gears tends to mean more time spent getting thru the gear and this means slower acceleration. Are the gears only taller when paired to the 1.8 manual rear differential through. I used the trans and rear end from a 2.8 for my swap and have noticed 5th gear at 80mph sits around 3600rpm.This overcomes the previous issue with the different cranks.Are the gears only taller when paired to the 1.8 manual rear differential through. I used the trans and rear end from a 2.8 for my swap and have noticed 5th gear at 80mph sits around 3600rpm. Are the gears only taller when paired to the 1.8 manual rear differential through. I used the trans and rear end from a 2.8 for my swap and have noticed 5th gear at 80mph sits around 3600rpm. It requires aggressive imagination. I Do Werk. The gearing change does vary slightly with the 2.8 trans compared to the 1.8. For example, it is 12 taller in second, 10 taller in third, 9 taller in fourth, and 7 taller in fifth. Mike mentioned the gear drop into second. That is usually ok with an S4 but a big turbo 1.8 can easily fall out of it's powerband. Shifting at 7200 drops the 1.8t trans to 4100 in second, the 2.8 trans to 4000, and the s4 trans to 3400. Even if you revved to 8 grand the s4 trans drops you to 4000 for second. Outside of re-spooling a turbo, the place this matters is at the track. If a big turbo A4 is trapping 135 then the 1.8 trans is perfect. If it is going to trap over 140 then it might be better off with the taller trans. Of course, it will take the same percentage more torque to accelerate at the same rate in the taller gears. Same goes for time trialing. If I was banging off the limiter a second before the braking zones on both straights I need to either raise the limiter or get a little more gearing. If I was hitting the limiter towards the middle of the straight there is still time to push that next gear. It requires aggressive imagination. I Do Werk. Data I put together for a 1.8t transmission with the higher rev limiters Both have very tall 2nd gear. What I look at is where in the power band the next gear lands, the difference on the 1.8 trans and the B5 S4 transmission is huge for my BAT setup.It's a lot more fun on someone else's car. I will hit you up for leftover parts once I get back:) Paul.It's a lot more fun on someone else's car. I will hit you up for leftover parts once I get back:) Paul. This thread should be progressing while you are out of town.If you have questions let me know ive done this swap before, but your doing the pilot bearing a little different i see.Good luck Biketsai. We all know how Murphy's law likes to stick it's face around the corner with these cars. The numbers are not exact. The site I uses shows 158 mph for 5th gear at 7200 rpm for the 1.8t 5 speed. Data I put together for a 1.8t transmission with the higher rev limiters The B5 S4 4th gear hits 135 mph at 7500 rpm and the B6 S4 trans hits 135 mph at 8300 rpm since it has a very short 4th gear. Both have very tall 2nd gear. What I look at is where in the power band the next gear lands, the difference on the 1.8 trans and the B5 S4 transmission is huge for my BAT setup.I think more and more everyday of doing the swap. KevinI got the clutch disk yesterday and the UPS guy took the 6-puck, thanks. Now the question is, do I use the auto transmission bolts, or the manual trans bolts.Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Audizine Family today!To start viewing posts, select the forum section that you want to visit from the selection below.Register or Log In now!I used an 0A3 6 speed out of a 2005 S4, all the parts bolted right up to my 2003 1.8T. Below are my notes and information for the swap. General Notes Get the Bentley manual. Reference Biketsai's write-up: or You can use parts from any B6 or B7- sedan, avant, or cabriolet. You can use a manual transmission dating back to the B4, but you’ll have to swap tail housings and front axle stubs. You CANNOT use the rear diff or driveshaft from a B4 or B5. There are two different methods of mounting the rear of the manual transmissions- the “side mounts” similar to what are used on the TipTronic (5 speed) and a crossmember (6 speed). The TipTronic trans is HUGE. The difference in size between it and the 0A3 is astounding. Removing the TipTronic is a pain because of its size (follow the Bentley!). The size of the TipTronic is the reason for the difference in downpipes- the TipTronic downpipe is pushed farther to the passenger side. Of course, this interferes with the 6 speed transmission crossmember so you’ll need to rework your downpipe or get one from a manual transmissioned car. You can remove front CV halfshafts without removing any suspension members (at least for the 1.8T.). You could add the clutch pedal and smaller brake pedal to the auto trans pedal bracket, the bracket is the same.The steel FW with my FX700 was a touch over 43mm, I tack welded the bearing in place. Or you can get a 2.8 (probably 3.0 as well.) pilot bearing and trim it down to fit after removing the torque convertor bushing. Details here: Module Recoding 3 modules need to be recoded from auto to manual: ECU, ABS and cluster. You cannot recode a module when it has a fault, therefore it would be best to recode BEFORE removing the transmission and TCU. At a minimum, you need the TCU and the gear selector switch installed. You'll need to recode the ABS module first, as it seems to find fault with everyone else, then the ECU, then the cluster. With cluster and ECU recoded, the ABS module gets more angry and flashes the brake light. You can recode the cluster at any time. Without the clutch switch, a recoded ECU will not have cruise control. To recode ABS for the manual transmission, use the information on Ross Tech's site. Use the appropriate login code for your DESIRED coding (i.e. login as if it were a manual transmission), change the coding of the module and perform the steering angle sensor calibration. Click here to see an Example of a Sticker. To recode the ECU for the manual transmission, change the coding to 16701. The B6 uses two switches on the clutch, the one that is needed to fix the previously listed problems is part number: 8E0 927 189B and resides next to the brake switch. Yes, pix with hands in them suck.Huge fan of details. Thanks for the links too. My clutch switch and reverse light guides actually apply more the B6 than the B5. The drive-by-cable cars are a bit different. Sounds like you might have got your reverse lights squared away, but if you still need that connector it's just chillaxin' here.Huge fan of details. The drive-by-cable cars are a bit different. I'll probably take care of that in the spring.Everything else is the same.Did you use an S4 clutch when you did the swap?In the earlier message you said that the driveshaft and axles are different. Which driveshaft and axles will I need for my car to make it fit. I appreciate your assitance.In the earlier message you said that the driveshaft and axles are different. I appreciate your assitance. The relay 395 crossed in picture above is not there. According to my research this swtich is built into the TCU when it comes to CVT transmissions.Any and all wiring modification suggestions, are just that: suggestions. Please do not blindly follow this advice. Rather, please test all circuits yourself against a factory wiring diagram and be certain you know what you are doing. If your wiring modifications lead to the death of your car, or to the death of yourself, or if they leave you in a state in between living and dying: it is not my fault.Yes, I'm probably going to sell the car if I get it running right, It's already all apart. There is no turning back now:) As far as grounding the unit, I plan to remove the TCU once the swap is complete as I won't have any place to mount it or the need for it For now I need it attached until I reprogram all the modules. So in a couple different options sounds like the ideal way to go is to take this relay and ground it to the clutch switch.Also do you have any leads to where it is located, is this in the ECU box. I will check again but I only see two relays thereNow my only remaining piece are the reverse lights. Can anyone help with those. I have the sensor and the plug for it but not sure where to wire it to. The cluster of wires from the CVT TCU would be my first suspect but no idea which wires I should tap if any there.This diagram shows all 3 transmissions types: Compare this to the previous diagram. Assuming you still have that relay in place, it looks like the easy way would be to GROUND 1 side of your 5MT reverse switch, and connect the other side to TCU connector pin 3. BAM, reverse lights. Disclaimer: I, nor anyone I have known, has ever 5MT swapped a CVT car. Any and all wiring modification suggestions, are just that: suggestions. If your wiring modifications lead to the death of your car, or to the death of yourself, or if they leave you in a state in between living and dying: it is not my fault.Either way will have the same effect. Now wire up some back-up lights like it's your JOB (son?).Though I know there are two different styles of TCU plugs (round and square) the round one that I have doesn't have any wire going to pin 3 (at least what is labeled pin 3). I will report back, thank you very much sir!Any and all wiring modification suggestions, are just that: suggestions. If your wiring modifications lead to the death of your car, or to the death of yourself, or if they leave you in a state in between living and dying: it is not my fault.Or hook one end to ground and do it with a test light.I have gone big turbo and installed a 517 TC but I think my tip tranny is eventually going to die so I will be having to do a swap. I see a lot of codes thrown out regarding what matches what. Could someone point me to a link or post a list of engine codes and what 6 spd tranny's will match. I really appreciate the write up it is going to help a lot.There are tons of codes, none of which really matter. There are certain gotcha's you have to watch out for depending on which one you choose, though. For example, your 2002 A4 uses a separate VSS while later A4's do not. Using a newer transmission without a VSS would create a potential problem for you.The line ends are the same, but the curvature is slightly different due to the chassis differences. B5 line: B6 line: It should be able to be re-bent a bit to work if needed. It bends reasonably easy. - I too am curious if the B5 half shafts will work. I'm assuming that they would work fine, but I'm not 100. The only possible issue would be the length. You would of course need to use either 2001 1.8T axles or B5 V6 axles when mated to the 5-speed because they have the larger outer CV joints like the B6 uses.The 01E is high horsepower. I am thinking I will need the 01E as high horsepower is why my tip tranny is going bad. Are these correct assumptions? There are tons of codes, none of which really matter. Using a newer transmission without a VSS would create a potential problem for you. Can you discribe the work around please. Or will it just fit? There are tons of codes, none of which really matter. Using a newer transmission without a VSS would create a potential problem for you. The line ends are the same, but the curvature is slightly different due to the chassis differences.